Tortas Neza

The domain of a Mexico City cook, Tortas Neza serves equal parts sandwich and sport out of a truck in Corona, Queens. On a good day, fútbol will play on a widescreen TV propped up against the window, an invitation for customers to enjoy their street food standing up. The truck’s owner, Galdino “Tortas” Molinero, got his start selling the staple sandwich of Mexican cuisine out of a backpack in nearby Flushing Meadows. His title is well-deserved. Each of the 19 tortas on his menu is assembled to a chef’s standard, for a construction worker’s appetite, and with a soccer fan’s enthusiasm — in fact, every sandwich is named after a different Mexican soccer club. The Torta Pumas, a family affair of meats, cheese, and vegetables on an oversize bun, tends to stop the show, but almost every other sandwich is just as tasty, if not quite as incapacitated. Yes, the main show is the torta, but sandwiches aren’t everything here, and Molinero is also a master of the antojitos, masa-based snacks like quesadillas and gorditas, and it shows in his excellent tacos, including some of the best carnitas and carne enchiladas in the city. Other snacks and small plates, including quesadillas, gorditas, and a host of dishes that are almost never ordered, are available to match any rate of hunger, but arrive with an empty stomach. One torta will be more than enough.