The Unabashed Joy of Xochimilco

Based on my first visit ten years ago, I wanted to show Brian my favorite spots for our recent trip to Mexico City. At the same time, I was also determined to explore the side of Mexico City that I had not gotten to last time. As the largest city in the Western Hemisphere, the city has no shortage of exciting places to explore. Just like any other of my trip, I started my planning by pinning all the interesting places on my Google MyMaps. In the space of a week after booking the flight tickets, I must have collected over fifty pins just on CDMX alone. It was stressful to figure out how to organize our five days in the city. Besides the houses by architect Luis Barragán, high on my list this time was the unique landscape of Xochimilco.

The model and mural of Tenochtitlan at the National Museum of Anthropology.

Back in college, I took a course in Aztec archaeology in my personal quest to get a minor in Anthropology. While most of my cohorts were fascinated by Aztec human sacrifices or the Spanish conquest, I was most enthralled by the description of Tenochtitlan, the pre-Columbian predecessor of modern Mexico City. When the Aztec empire was toppled, the city was unceremoniously razed. Very few traces of the original city remain. The description of Tenochtitlan only survived through the written accounts of conquistadors:

“All the streets at intervals have openings, through which the water flows, crossing from one street to another; and at these openings, some of which are very wide, there are also very wide bridges, composed of large pieces of timber, of great strength and well put together; on many of these bridges ten horses can go abreast.”

— Hernán Cortés, conquistador

According to the available written records, the scale and wealth of Tenochtitlan could easily rival that of London and Venice. I wish photography had been invented several centuries earlier to capture the city's splendor. A wonderful way to visualize the past glory of Tenochtitlan would be a visit to the National Museum of Anthropology. The main Aztec gallery is an enormous model of the Plaza Mayor and an oil painting of Tenochtitlan. But in a few decades, the Spaniards transformed Tenochtitlan into a typical colonial settlement by draining Lake Texcoco and paving over any remnant of waterways. According to historians, one last section of Lake Texcoco still survives today: the waterways of Xochimilco.

The Many Ways To Xochimilco

At the southern edge of Mexico City, Xochimilco is merely 17 miles away from the Zócalo. However, please don’t let that distance fool you. By public transportation, it would take 90 minutes to reach Xochimilco and would involve making two transfers from the metro, a local tram, to a local bus. By the time we were heading out to Xochimilco, it was already two o’clock in the afternoon. Standing in the middle of crowded trains and buses did not seem all that appealing. Instead, we opted for an Uber ride from our apartment in the Centro Histórico.

Little did we know just how bad the traffic was at the city center. It took us forty minutes to traverse three city blocks. Ultimately, reaching Xochimilco took us about an hour and forty minutes. And because it was Uber, our fare was fixed at $240 pesos despite the ridiculously bad traffic delay. I could only imagine how much this journey would have cost if this were a metered cab in New York! I also have to admit that the Uber rate in CDMX does seem criminally low, especially for medium-distance rides. Feeling bad for the guy, I decided to do something I had never done: a 50% tip for an Uber rider.

According to the guidebook, there are at least half a dozen different piers for the canals of Xochimilco. After some research, it seems like Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas is the most recommended point of departure. With ample parking and other public amenities, it is not difficult to understand why this is one of the most popular docks at Xochimilco. To save a few pesos, stocking up on drinks and snacks while on land was very common. Many families even brought their own coolers, fully loaded with cold beers. Though we did not come that prepared, we at least grabbed lunch at a nearby taqueria.

The Art of Non-Negotiation

It is no secret that bargaining is my least favorite activity when traveling through this part of the world. I don’t understand the joy of haggling, particularly with a language barrier. I have read in advance that the boat hire supposedly has a fixed rate of $500 pesos per boat per hour. I have heard that a few unethical operators may target unsuspected tourists by charging $500 pesos per person instead of per boat. The skeptic within me immediately wondered whether such a scam is more of a norm on the ground. Even before leaving the parking lot, we were immediately flagged down by staff from the boat cooperative. I was so relieved when he quoted us the official rate! Man, life is so much easier without haggling.

The colorful shrine to Our Lady of Guadeloupe next to the boat dock.

Speaking of fixed prices, there is a giant signboard just next to the dock. The board does not just spell the cost of the charter; it also spells out in big letters that the $500 pesos are per boat, NOT PER PERSON! In the rare instance when you felt like you were being ripped off, this sign could be your best friend! A closer look at the board, you would also find fixed prices for anything from alcohol, to sandwiches, and quesadillas. Please note that prices listed there apply only to items and services from the boat operators. The co-op staff quickly pointed out prices are higher on the water.

When in doubt, you should consult the board for the published fixed prices.

Because the excursion is charged per boat basis, it is theoretically possible to split the cost of the charter between different parties. But in reality, that may be more difficult than it sounds. The gondoliers would not allow sharing among strangers. I suspect after years in business; it would be easy for them to discern real friends versus “friends of convenience”. If you want to cobble together a group, organizing like-minded people well before arriving at the dock would be smart.

The Magic of Trajineras

Since the charter is a fixed rate, we certainly were not fuzzy about which boat we got into. Before we knew it, Brian and I were ushered onto a row of flat-bottom boats and met our gondolier. Since our Spanish is appalling, we left everything in his hands. After paying cash upfront, we were off to explore the waterway. Because it took us ninety minutes to get here, it only seems right that we should opt for a three-hour charter. The route was supposed to bring us around the most popular sections of the canal system, including a stop at the infamous Island of Dolls. Truthfully, I was a little worried whether we would be bored. After all, these boats are designed for a party of twenty. We felt a little lonely in comparison.

Could you believe this was a Tuesday afternoon?

Known as trajineras, the origin of these colorful vessels dates back to the pre-Columbian era. The flat bottom allows transporting goods through the shallow waterways of Lake Texcoco. As the lake was drained, their use declined until a revival in the late 19th century. According to legends, trajineras were revived by former president of Mexico Porfirio Díaz when he wished to entertain guests in Xochimilco. The boats were decorated with fresh flowers and greenery in the early days. For practical reasons, they are replaced with brightly painted decorations over times. Almost every component of trajineras is painted in bright neon colors; they would be able to brighten up the whole area even on the gloomiest day.

One of the most notable features of each trajineras is its ornamental steel arch at the front of the vessel. The ornamentation tells the story of each vessel. It is customary for the arch to bear female names such as Bernice, Valentina, and Claudia. These names may be from loved ones or other popular celebrities. Since my name may sometimes be interpreted as feminine, I hoped to spot a trajinera named “Aries!”

What intrigued me the most was the national flags that adorned the top of the arch. While Mexican flags are common, foreign flags make up the majority. It was fun to see which flags are the most popular. The tri-color flag of European countries like Italy, Ireland, and France seems particularly popular. Interestingly, we saw a rather large proportion of Scandandivanian flags. Amazingly, I even spotted relatively obscure ones like Faroe Island. And just like the names, the flags could honor past guests or attract specific foreign guests.

It’s All About Chinampa

Although the trajineras may be the most visually distinctive element of Xochimilco, the most important feature has to be the Chinampa. Chināmitl in Nahuatl language, Chinampa is a pre-Columbian technique of creating arable land out of the shallow lake beds of Lake Texcoco. Wooden posts were driven into the marshy ground and tied together with a network of wooden frames to hold piles of mud and decaying plants. Willow trees were commonly planted along the perimeter of the chinampa to stabilize the islands. And by dredging the surrounding lakebed, networks of waterways were naturally formed. The resulting landscape, albeit organized and geometric, is somewhat similar to the Everglade National Park in Florida.

One of the numerous nurseries of Xochimilco.

Among the legacies of the Aztec civilization, chinampa may be the most lasting one. Over the century, chinampa thrived as some of the most fertile lands in the Valley of Mexico. Among the most common crops grown here are maize, beans, chilies, squash, tomatoes, and greens. Like before, farmers still access their fields using trajinera. Ecologically, Chinampa does a lot of good for the environment. These fields absorb a fair amount of sewage overflow and provide great shelter for fish and birdlife. It proves that sometimes, we must look to the past for our sustainable future. But despite their ecological benefits, chinampa’s future is constantly threatened by urban encroachment. Over the past century, the ever-increasing sewage overflow and the dropping water table took a serious toll on Chinampa.

Who wouldn’t want to pick up a pot of plants or two?

Like other historic landscapes worldwide, tourism is the best safeguard for Xochimilco’s future. To say the cruises around Xochimilco are popular would be an understatement. Indeed, one of the more popular excursions is visiting many working farms and plant nurseries. One would hope the tourism dollar may help with the conservation efforts. Because tourism activities at Xochimilco concentrate around a relatively small section of the larger canal system, preserving the wider landscape is far from a guarantee. Luckily, the chinampas of Xochimilco have been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. With that, Xochimilco’s long-term sustainability is a subject of international scrutiny.

A Floating Fiesta

No matter how many pictures of Xochimilco you may have seen, it could not properly prepare you for the actual experience. For one thing, the waterway was crowded with so many trajinera, even on a weekday. Bumper-to-bumper traffic was on the water from the moment we left the dock. That may sound horrible, but it was truthfully a blessing in disguise. A boat trip through Xochimilco is as much about the canals as it is about soaking up the festive atmosphere. The traffic jam on the canal provided us with endless entertainment in both sights and sound.

It was easy to forget that this is part of the bustling Mexico City.

On average, each trajinera carries about a dozen passengers. Most Mexicans came here fully prepared, with some coolers of drinks and baskets of prepared food. A whole feast is not uncommon to spread across the table. Some even brought their portable picnic grill for an impromptu barbeque on the water. For those of us who were willfully unprepared, plenty of vendors up and down the canals sell all sorts of Mexican snacks and drinks. Among the most popular got to be the grilled elote smothered in Mexican mayonnaise. A big part of the fun was flagging down the floating vendors and seeing snacks and drinks prepared before you.

My corn was prepared right on the water.

The other choice would be Micheladas. This signature Mexican drink contains beer, lime juice, chili pepper, and other spices. Its salt-rimmed cup makes it particularly enticing, which often looks deliciously sloppy. It reminded me of many outrageous culinary creations at state fairs back home. But for whatever reason, we missed out on micheladas here and opted for a 1.5L bottle of Modelo instead. It was true that prices are higher on the water. But once again, we were talking about the difference of fifty pesos.

The festivity on water extends well beyond food. All over the water were teams of musicians for hire. Ferrying from boat to boat, the mariachi bands provided services and charges by the song. The going rate was about $100 pesos a song, which is not a bad deal if split between ten groups. For those on a limited budget, the crowded waterway meant taking advantage of the free music from adjacent boats. And besides mariachi bands, our personal favorites are the percussion ensemble. There was just something about seeing floating marimba that made us smile. If hiring musicians is not for you, bringing your own speakers or boombox to spice up the party is common.

Even though we did not have our own party on the boat, the people-watching was fantastic. It was great fun to see how each boat had its own party style, ranging from rave to karaoke. Judging from some provisions people brought on board, it is safe to assume this was not their first go at Xochimilco. After all, who wouldn’t enjoy a few hours of drinking and music in the middle of this urban oasis? I could hardly think of anything remotely similar back in New York or anywhere else I could think of.

While the boat ride may be relaxing, it was difficult to steer the trajineras across the water. Armed with only a long wooden pole, the gondoliers somehow managed to steer us through heavy traffic. Because of the relatively large trajineras, gentle collisions on the river are common and are part of the fun. There were times when we were wedged in by several other vessels. Seeing all the gondoliers working as a team to facilitate traffic flow was amazing. Compared to their counterparts in Venice, these guys may not have vocal training but are definitely in tip-top shape. Because they made it seem so easy, I wish we had asked our gondolier for a go with navigating the waterway.

It seems like quite an effortless shopping experience.

Speaking of gondoliers, don’t necessarily expect them to be your tour guide. However, they are very accommodating to guest requests ranging from getting the attention of floating vendors to scouting out a public restroom on land. They may not be particularly friendly in the American sense, but they made great efforts to ensure you have the best time under their care. So even though our interaction with the gondolier was minimal, we did not hesitate to give him a 20% tip at the end of the trip.

The Island of the Dolls

No matter from which dock you decide to start your journey, you are bound to be taken past the infamous Island of the Dolls (La Isla de las Muñecas). It is often regarded as one of the most infamous and haunted spots in CDMX. The legend is that a young was drawn in the waterway of Xochimilco. Her body was found by the edge of a chinampa owned by Julián Santana Barrera. He overheard the girl's spirit crying out, “I want my doll”! Terrified of the voice he heard, the owner began hanging up dolls around near the spot where the body was found. Over the next five decades, he continuously added additional dolls and began attracting the attention of the local and international press.

The infamy of this spooky island only grew after the passing of Santana Barrera in 2001. Rumors have it that he died near the exact spot where the girl’s body was found. The island's popularity grew, along with the increased tourism in Xochimilco. The contrast between spookiness and the innocence of dolls is certainly compelling to any visitor. Today, the island is considered the most popular stop along the waterway. In addition to hundreds of creepy dolls, a small museum is dedicated to this peculiar place.

Because we were short on time, we did not bother paying the island the $50 pesos fee. The sail-by was just enough to get a feel of the place. According to some sources, the island's popularity prompted many other chinampa owners to put up their own dolls to attract unsuspecting tourists. Are we sure the island we saw was the authentic one? I don’t think it matters. Ultimately, it is all about buying into an eerie tale.

Quintessentially Mexican

In the end, our three-hour cruise flew by in an instant. Honestly, this might be the most exciting activity we have participated in in Mexico. Brian was so fond of Xochimilco that we contemplated revisiting this place on our last full day of this trip. If I were to come up with an appropriate description for our experience, it has to be “unabashed joy.” Despite the apparent chaos and overlapping music (a personal pet peeve of mine), Xochimilco is a wonderful experience, even for the most discerning travelers. Is Xochimilco touristy? You bet! But it is by no means a tourist trap targeting foreigners. This is one rare instance where being a tourist doesn't seem cynical. It is indeed one of the most quintessentially Mexican experiences in CDMX.

Xochimilco’s fame has spread far. Indeed, I remember when we were in Cancún a year ago, I saw a place called Xochimilco Cancún. The geography nerd in me got confused. Was Xochimilco suddenly transported from CDMX to Quintana Roo? The copycat in Cancún is just a Disney version of the original. Instead of a flat-rate charter per boat, tickets for the Cancún edition cost $90 USD per person. I would even pay the steep admission to write a comparison blog post here.

And for any early risers out there, a great way to experience Xochimilco would be a sunrise tour through the waterways. In particular, the sunrise cruise organized by Arca Tierra is highly sought after for its high-quality farm-to-table breakfast. However, I have to admit that the 5:30 am meet-up time made it quite a hard sell for me.

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