When you close your eyes and think of Panama, what’s the one thing you know about the Central American country? The Panama Canal, of course. But this small, narrow country, set on an isthmus between the Pacific and the Caribbean, offers much more than the waterway that famously bisects it, as I learned this winter on a trip to its eponymous capital.
Sitting at the “heart of the Americas” — where North and South America meet — Panama City is a place of contrasts, where a shimmering wall of white skyscrapers is skirted by sea, locks and rivers; an ancient quarter is peppered with hip bars; and bustling city life is just a short drive from wild rainforest. Getting there from Toronto is easy, with a non-stop flight taking about five hours and 30 minutes. Here’s what to do on your next visit.
Casco Antiguo, Panama City’s historic district, dates back to 1673
GETTY IMAGES
After legendary privateer Henry Morgan burned down the original Panama City in 1671 (the ruins are preserved as Panama Viejo, a UNESCO World Heritage site), the community restarted here. Casco Antiguo is the old quarter, with busy plazas and brick streets, a mix of colonial cultures, French Juliet balconies and classic Spanish touches. Spend a little time at the Museo del Canal, and the golden altar at the Church of San Jose. Visit the Metropolitan Cathedral, consecrated in 1796, then grab a drink next to the top of its twin bell towers by heading to Capella, the rooftop bar at Hotel La Compañia, a new property constructed from a Jesuit mission. Cap off your night with a cocktail made from local sugar cane at the cosy, upscale Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar.
ARTICLE CONTINUES BELOW
ARTICLE CONTINUES BELOW
For the lookout points: Cinta Costera
A seven-kilometre linear park forming a green crescent along Panama Bay, this is the best place to get outside, right in the heart of the city. Escape the legendary traffic and explore the 26 hectares of reclaimed land, on foot or astride a bicycle. There’s a Japanese garden and lovely miradors (lookouts), including the “platos turisticos,” man-made island-like platforms right on the water that come equipped with lounge chairs and binoculars. Don’t leave without snapping a photo with the giant, Insta-friendly Panama sign.
For a true taste of the city Casa Escondida
Find upscale comfort food at Casa Escondida, tucked in the San Francisco neighbourhood.
Supplied
The sylvan enclave of San Francisco was once a residential neighbourhood, and now, its small bungalows, tucked away on tree-lined streets, house some of the best restaurants for a true taste of Panama. Case in point: Casa Escondida (“hidden house”), where you’ll find a Vespa parked in the carport, and you can eat at a dining table set in the bump-out living room. The front yard is filled with dense greenery (thus, the “hidden” part), and they prepare simple, homey dishes from herbs and vegetables grown right there. Chef and owner Alfonso De La Espriella serves an upscale twist on the comfort food your grandma might have cooked, if you grew up here. Think: chicharron tacos or, the house specialty, codillo de cerdo, baked for five hours.
For the freshest catch: Mercado de Mariscos
Fishing is still a vital industry in Panama, and at this relatively small market on Avenida Balboa, the city’s curving waterfront drive, boats bring in the daily catch. Come early (say, 5 a.m.) for the freshest seafood — everything from red snapper to crab, lobster and corvina, a local favourite. Or wander in throughout the day and evening for a simple, inexpensive meal at one of the small counter-service restaurants, where you can get some pulpo ceviche (still $1 for a cup) or fried prawns, paired with a local beer.
For hiking in the wild: Soberania National Park
Soberania National Park offers scenic hiking and wildlife watching close to Panama City.
GETTY IMAGES
Just about a 30-minute drive from Panama City, you can experience the wonders of the rainforest — 22,000 hectares of it — on an easy day trip. Lining the banks of the Panama Canal, on the Chagres River, this national park is home to hiking trails and more than 500 species of birds, including flycatchers, hawks and toucans. Other residents you might spot include white-faced capuchin and howler monkeys, and two- and three-toed sloths. Climb to the top of the 32-metre-high observation tower, or book a night’s stay at the nearby Gamboa Rainforest Reserve.
Accommodation was provided to Tim Johnson by Hotel La Compañia, which did not review or approve this article.
To join the conversation set a first and last name in your user profile.
Sign in or register for free to join the Conversation