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For those in the know, Oaxaca, Mexico, has long been on the map. But in recent years Oaxaca has solidified its standing as a high-octane design destination the world over. Blame the boom on mezcal—agave spirits are the fastest-growing type of spirit in the US—or the community of contemporary artists, or the enduring allure of the region’s cuisine, or the crop of new boutique hotels. Oaxaca’s reputation as the cool kid of Mexico shows no signs of slowing down. Yet Oaxaca’s magnetism can’t be pinned to any one trend. What makes Oaxaca what it is, what constitutes its identity, are the Indigenous communities—their people, traditions, and ancestral rituals remain the heart of it all.
The city and its surrounds are brimming with places to eat, drink, and stay. We’ve narrowed down our top choices so you won’t waste a moment while enjoying Oaxaca.
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Where to eat
Those seeking approachable spots serving up contemporary Oaxacan fare have good options. At Levadura de Olla (reservations recommended), Chef Thalia Barros Garcia, one of Food and Wine Mexico’s Best New Chefs 2021, combined her culinary school education with the traditional food from her hometown in the Sierra Sur region. Go for the eternally photogenic heirloom tomato salad, the agua de maíz, and tamal de requeson. At Tika’aya (reservations required), an Indigenous kitchen by the self-proclaimed “five boys from La Mixteca,” Oaxaca’s fertile region to the west, you’ll find a weekly changing prix fixe menu that is complex and beautiful yet unpretentious.
The city’s classics are worth a visit, too—and be sure to make a reservation ahead of time. Secure a table at Alejandro Ruíz’s Casa Oaxaca for dishes like stuffed chile de agua and heirloom turkey with mole negro. Stop by Criollo—from Pujol chef Enrique Olvera—for brunch seated around a tree-lined patio, with dishes served from an open-air kitchen where slabs of meat and ropes of chorizo smoke. Visit Los Danzantes, the original upscale spot in the city, for contemporary Mexican in a sweeping three-story space.
For quick bites during the day, head to Tacos de Cazuela del Carmen Alto in the center. The lesser known of two taco stands near the church La Iglesia del Carmen Alto, Cazuela del Carmen Alto serves up made-on-the-spot tortillas with dozens of stewed meats and vegetables from clay pots, or cazuelas. A few blocks south is Mercado de 20 de Noviembre's famed Pasillo de Humo, an aisle dotted with vendors where visitors can buy dozens of cuts of meat to be grilled al momento and consumed on site. For late-night eats, the city’s famed Lechoncito de Oro can’t be beat. Open only after dark, the taco stand doles out suckling pig tacos and tostadas until the early morning. Bring cash for all of the above.
Oaxacan food is varied and awe-inspiring but can be heavy. For inventive salads and sandwiches, seriously good bread, and some of the best coffee in town, head to Onnno Lonchería. Devoted to perfecting his sourdough, Chef Gustavo Coutiño imports organic unbleached flour from the US for the optimal chew and tang.
Where to drink
The number one mezcal-producing region in Mexico, Oaxaca is all about this complex spirit. A centuries-old ceremonial drink that’s made from more than 40 varieties of agave, mezcal is best enjoyed with a touch of education to better understand its significance and nuance. Visit the newly opened La Casa Grande, industry icon Real Minero's tasting room, bar, and shop, where you can chat with members of the Ángeles family and even make plans to visit their palenque in Santa Catarina Minas.
For a broad sampling of mezcals from Oaxaca and beyond, make reservations at Mezcaloteca, a private bar and library offering more than 100 mezcals and educational tastings. Cocktail bar Sabina Sabe, named the 20th best bar in North America in 2022, has an extensive list of worthy mezcals by revered makers like La Locura and Mezcal Vago and serves up creative twists on classic cocktails. Stop by swanky art deco bar Selva to rub shoulders with Oaxacan artists and designers. For natural wine, head to Amá Terraza on the top floor of the hotel Casa Antonieta and enjoy the city’s most beautiful rooftop—which doubles as a hummingbird sanctuary.
If you’re looking for a no-frills, only-in-Oaxaca spirit, you’ll find it at Pollos Bar. At this quintessential cantina, the jukebox spits out cumbia music, the beers are cheap and cold, and the people-watching is unmatched. For a dive, walk through the swinging doors of Salón de la Fama for a mezcalito at the tiny, unassuming bar.
What to do
Your time in Oaxaca is best split between downtown and day trips to the surrounding areas. The city of Oaxaca is a just one piece of the diverse region at large. Start exploring the city at Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, a church that acts as the city center and has multitudes of street vendors and events orbiting around it. Behind the church is the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca, a botanical garden which requires an 100-peso ticket for entry (around $5)—stop by the ticket window to buy one in advance. Weave your way through bustling markets like 20 de Noviembre and Benito Juárez for chapulines, quesillo, and salchicha ejuteca. Be sure to wear closed-toe shoes and sample every snack you see.
Museums like the Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños (MUPO), Museo de la Filatelia (MUFI, the stamp museum), and Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (MACO)—recently reopened after a two-year closure—are great stops for learning about traditional and modern local art, while admiring the stately centuries-old colonial architecture of Oaxaca’s Centro. Novice and expert cooks alike can take a class with Casa Crespo for a custom menu and chaperoned trip to the market. For shopping, stop by concept shop Marchanta for a sleek mix of fashion, art, and design before heading to Los Baúles de Juana Cata por Remigio Mestas, a haven for textiles.
Outside the city, the Hierve el Agua calcified waterfall remains one of the most popular day trips and one that can easily be paired with a visit to Teotitlan del Valle, a town known for its textiles. While in Teotitlan, check out the Vida Nueva Women's Cooperative shop and the newly opened Fe y Lola showroom. (Send a message via Instagram to arrange a viewing at the latter.) On the art track, the town of San Agustín Etla is home to the gorgeous Centro de las Artes de San Agustín (CASA), a former textile mill turned art school and contemporary museum.
To really squeeze the most out of your time in Oaxaca, Mexico, tap a local guide who can take you deeper. Coyote Aventuras offers pre-planned and customizable tours, including hiking in the forests of the Sierra Sur and a street art bike tour of the city. For the adventurous traveler, Coyote also offers multi-day trekking and biking expeditions off the beaten path. An expert travel specialist like Stephanie Schneider at Tia Stephanie Tours or Zachary Rabinor of Journey Mexico can also help you organize a guided tour or plan an itinerary.
Where to stay
Formerly a town of classic luxury, like Quinta Real, Oaxaca has played host to a spate of design-driven hotel openings in the last years. There’s Grana B&B, the bed and breakfast by the team behind Mexico City’s beloved but since-closed Chaya. Housed in a renovated 16th century building, Grana remains one of the most beautiful spaces in Oaxaca, skipping the en vogue brutalism favored by many top Mexican architects today and instead playing to the house’s historical past with quintessential Mexican tile work and cantera verde stone floors.
Newly renovated and expanded Casa Antoineta offers an impressive mix of on-site amenities for a nine-room boutique hotel, which make it a favorite of locals and visitors alike. There’s Muss Cafe, the hotel’s first floor specialty coffee shop, and Amá, the third-story bar and cafe located on one of the city’s most stunning rooftops—not to mention the chic rooms and wonderful staff.
With its opening just before the pandemic, Pug Seal’s Oaxacan outpost marks the Mexico City–based hotel brand’s first foray beyond the nation's capital. In paying homage to Oaxaca’s artistic past and present, Pug Seal tapped artist Rafael Urigias to paint the 20-room hotel’s signature fresco-painted murals, which take inspiration from the canon of Zapotec symbols and iconography.
For a minimalist escape in the vibrant city, look to Escondido Hotel by Mexico’s favorite boutique hotel group Grupo Habito. Mexico’s legendary architect Alberto Kalach renovated the 12-room hotel, which boasts elegant stonework, recessed concrete shelving, and a raw mineral palate.
Situated on the same property as aforementioned restaurant Criollo, Casa Criollo remains an elevated choice for a rental home with its whitewashed walls and artisanal details. Condé Nast Traveler senior editor Megan Spurrell has stayed at and reviewed the property, and said it connected her to the city as a whole, making her feel like a local. On the other side of town in the idyllic neighborhood of Jalatlaco is Los Pilares, a budget-friendly pick with a rooftop plunge pool and the city’s best low-intervention wine list.
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