How Silk May Benefit Your Skin, According to Experts
According to urban myth, Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria owned a bulletproof vest woven from silk. Unfortunately, he wasn't wearing it when he was fatally shot in 1914, thereby throwing the world into World War I. It has since been shown that this silk would have halted a bullet of the era. Silk may be marred by a few drops of salad dressing, but weak it is not.
This surprising resilience has not gone unnoticed by skin-care brands. "There are two proteins in silk with supposed benefits: sericin and fibroin," says Morgan Rabach, a clinical instructor of dermatology at Mount Sinai in New York City. "Sericin forms a layer of protection over the skin and may help promote hydration. Fibroin may help repair skin cells and balance moisture levels." Tatcha's silk products weave together both proteins, while Silk Therapeutics' line includes fibroin for its purported ability to boost collagen. (Please note, dear readers, the use of supposed, may, and purported.)
Of course, that's a lot of worms. After studying silk proteins for over a decade, skin-care brand Eighteen B's chief science officer Lindsay Wray, a biomedical engineer, realized synthetic versions could be more effective at maintaining collagen function and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Natural silks’ benefits get watered down during a process known as hydrolysis, which degrades its proteins.
But big picture: "The science is not substantial enough to back silk alone as a wrinkle reducer like retinol," says New York City dermatologist Dendy Engelman. "However, there are studies pointing toward silk’s ability to improve penetration for actives that can help with wound healing." Hyaluronic acid (a star skin healer) is indeed in Eighteen B's products. For now, expect silk to hydrate, protect, and stop a bullet. Unlined skin may be another story.
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