Experts Reveal the Dos and Don’ts of the TikTok-Viral Russian Manicure

Whenever a new manicure trend arises, it might be the shade, the nail art or the shape that takes front and center. This time, it’s the technique. 

If you have, by any means, found yourself on NailTok, it’s likely that you’ve encountered the buzz surrounding the Russian manicure. 

First popularized in Russia and then across Europe, the dry manicure has, in recent months, become a raved-about service by salon-goers and celebrities alike in the United States. That’s because it's famously known for its detailed cuticle work and polished, long-lasting look. 

And yet, there are others who aren’t as keen on promoting the method, with safety and hygiene top of mind. 

All of the chatter online left us with questions that we wanted answers for. So, we looked to the experts – celebrity manicurists Lisa Kon and Julie Kandalec and board-certified dermatologist Dr. Claire Wolinsky, a St. Ives partner – to break down the hype.

What Is a Russian Manicure?

“Cuticle work is what sets the Russian technique apart from the American one,” Kon – who began her career 12 years ago in a town near Moscow, Russia – tells PEOPLE. 

That work involves using an electric nail file with a diamond-tipped attachment to get under the lateral nail fold and the section where the cuticles are usually pushed back to exfoliate the area, says Kandalec, a licensed expert for over two decades. InStyle also notes that the tool is used to open up the eponychium, which is where the nail and skin meet, to remove the cuticle.

The remaining dead skin or hangnails would then be trimmed using sterilized nail scissors.

The comprehensive service, which usually takes around 1.5 hours, is also completely dry, meaning water and acetone are out of the equation, even when removing existing polish on the nails (more on that ahead). 

Kon recommends getting the manicure every three to four weeks, even if you’re looking for a no-polish refresh (which the pro says is something that her men clients come in for). 

Of course, price can vary depending on the salon and design, but Kandalec – who’s worked with Jessica Chastain and Emily Blunt (both of whom rocked her looks to the 2023 Met Gala) – estimates that the manicure can start at $80 and go up from there.

Is It Worth the Hours-Long Visit?

Both Kon and Kandalec agree there are aesthetic benefits to the time-intensive manicure. People gawk over its longevity, which is only made possible by brushing the polish or lacquer further under the nail fold.

“Instead of applying it close to the cuticle or leaving a 1mm gap, we apply it directly under the cuticle," says Kon, who’s finesse has graced the hands of Zendaya, Kate Moss and Kendall Jenner. “When the nail grows out, the gap doesn't appear for another week or two, allowing the client to maintain a fresh-looking manicure for four to five weeks.” 

Clients who are looking to replace their gown-out set are in luck too, thanks to the service’s no-acetone approach to removing an existing coat. “We use ceramic rotating bits for the removal, which only takes off the top layer of color without affecting the client's nail or causing any impact on it, neither mechanically nor chemically," she says.

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A Hot Tip Before Your Salon Visit

Like with any manicure maintenance, cuticle oil is going to be a power player in keeping your polish locked in and help "keep the hangnails away and prevent dry skin,” says Kandalec.

However, since the Russian manicure is soak-free, she advises to cool off the oil at least three to four days before your appointment "because it's important that we have that dry skin there to exfoliate.”

Is the Russian Manicure Safe?

Dr. Wolinsky isn't falling for the rave reviews. "I would never recommend a Russian manicure," she tells PEOPLE, adding that it's a "danger zone" to mess with the cuticles, which "create a barrier against infection of the skin." She also says trauma to the nail matrix, the section where the nail grows, can cause a permanent split or indent in the nail plate.

"It’s not healthy to remove the cuticle and dermatologists generally warn against even pushing it back. Without it, there’s increased risk of yeast and bacteria infection, as well as a very difficult to treat and painful condition called paronychia, which causes inflammation of the skin at the junction of the nail and skin," she further advices.

The dermatologist's bottom line: "Don’t follow any social media trends before discussing with a healthcare professional you trust!"

Dr. Wolinsky suggests using a mild physical exfoliant that doesn't disrupt the barrier, like St Ives' Rose Water and Aloe Vera Scrub. Then, use a rich moisturizer or hand cream.

However, Kon, who understands the risks associated with the trend, emphasizes going to a manicurist who is highly trained and uses sterilized and disinfected tools.

Can I Perform a Russian Manicure on Myself?

If the Russian manicure still piques your curiosity, make sure to visit a salon. Both Kon and Kandalec warn that performing a Russian manicure on yourself at home, which some videos on TikTok show, should be avoided.  

Kandalec points out that using an electric file requires a certain level of knowledge in what direction it should move in (and when to do so) as well as and the rotations per minute (RPM) required of the various e-file heads in order to prevent damage.

“It can be uncomfortable and there is a high risk of injury," says Kon, who offers online and live classes in Beverly Hills, Calif., on the specific manicure. “Typically, training and practice take several months, but to reach a top-level proficiency, it may take a year or more."